When the Cantwell family moved from Dallas to Old Greenwich in the late 1980s, it was long before Texas barbecue had gone mainstream.

Back down South, it was pretty common to throw some brisket in the backyard smoker and cook it "low and slow" for 12 hours.

It was a tradition that Ron Cantwell and his two sons, Clint and John, brought with them to the Northeast.

"When you see a smoker going in Old Greenwich people are going to think the house is on fire at 6 o'clock in the morning," Clint Cantwell said. "I do recall the fire department at least calling to check up on a report of all the smoke in the backyard."

Today, with upscale joints like Danny Meyer's Blue Smoke and Food Network shows devoted to grilling, barbecue has gone beyond throwing some frozen patties over charcoal.

The Cantwells have also taken their family tradition to another level, with father and sons making up the Smoke in Da Eye competitive barbecue team. The three have traveled around the country, capturing titles at various barbecue competitions.